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12 September 2004

The End of the Line


 
The Colony of British Columbia joined Canadian Confederation in 1871, persuaded by a Dominion government promise to commence construction within two years of a railway to connect seaboard B.C. with the rest of Canada's railway system by 1881.
 
There was talk of bridges connecting Vancouver Island, north of Campbell River, with the mainland and of a terminus in Esquimalt or Victoria. Ah! those politicians and their promises.
 
After years of scandals and squabbles, the Canadian Pacific Railway was completed in 1885. Its western terminal was Vancouver.
 
Meanwhile, on Vancouver Island, people had become impatient for some sign of railway action - there were even calls for secession - then, in 1882 the CPR informed the dominion government it was not interested in building or operating a service there.
 
At that point, industrialist Robert Dunsmuir, heading a syndicate, contracted to build the Esquimalt & Nanaimo Railway. Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald drove in the last spike at Shawnigan Lake 13 Aug 1886. Initially, the service ran from the Esquimalt side of the Inner Harbour but a railway bridge and station were constructed in 1888 making Victoria the end of the line.
 
On Store Street at Market Square is a small cairn (see inset) marking the site of Victoria's first Esquimalt & Nanaimo Railway station, which was demolished in 1972 during road re-alignments. On the cairn is a piece of 1884's E&N steel rail and a plaque proclaiming the company's historical significance. It was unveiled by Mayor Peter Pollen and Robin Dunsmuir, great-grandson of Rober Dunsmuir, on Canada Day, 1984.
 
Across the road from the cairn is the new VIA Rail station, built that year. The small but quaint structure - from which the dayliner service to Courtenay operates - appears "all roof" at first glance. The architects, Irvin Kew Architecture Inc., meant it that way, a kind of playful nod to the chateau style favoured by CPR when constructing its railroad hotels. The Empress Hotel's roof is a worthy model for Irvin Kew's good-natured compliment.